Louis Vuitton fall/winter show was the most anticipated one at Paris Fashion Week and it was worth waiting since Nicolas Ghesquiere definitelly managed to redefine the brand . His debut LV collection is very sober, casual and detail oriented. He didn’t have a theme and the idea wasn’t to dazzle us with extravagance, but to create something pragmatic and wearable. Inspired by the history of Louis Vuitton, he worked with leather a lot and the result was extraordinary, since the collection features some truly amazing leather coats, bags, shoes and belts.
Bags were particularly interesting and innovative. Petite-Malle, his small boxy handbag which resemble company’s steamer trunks from nineteenth century immediately became the new “it bag” everybody is talking about. It can be worn as a crossbody bag or a clutch and it comes with removable leather cover. There are several different styles including the one with LV monogram. The brand didn’t create any new bag shapes for a long time and this bag is definitely an important invention for a label that has been making luxury luggage for more than 160 years. It is not a trendy bag but a timeless piece which you will want to wear until the end of your life. Brand’s PR said that the price is “on demand” and it can only be assumed that the waiting list will be very long.
Aside from this gorgeous little bag, Ghesquiere also made some amazing color blocking doctor bags and some of the come with removable covers too. A second layer is a very practical invention to protect the leather and it is also an interesting idea to have a luxury bag covered with a canvas wrapper.
Colorful fur jackets were very popular this winter but this trend went step further and next year we will be seeing a lot of colorful patchwork and vivid prints on fur. Miuccia Prada even made some printed fur coats for the summer, but we have seen more of this at fall/winter shows. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, well known for his artistic prints on clothes, used them on fur this time, while Altuzarra, Aquilano Rimondi and Daks have shown us interesting patterns printed on fur.
Patchwork is definitely a huge trend for fall/winter 2014 and we have seen some beautiful coats made from colorful patches at Phillip Lim, Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. Prada’s latest collection includes some leather coats with fur trimmings in vivid colors, while Vercase and Dolce&Gabbana designed some amazing fur coats in bright red which look incredibly warm.
Paris Fashion Week is one of the most important fashion events of the year and it attracts many celebrities, journalists and fashion designers from all over the world. We have seen some distinguished guests already wearing pieces from latest fall/winter collections and one of them was Rihanna who showed up in Prada coat at Miu Miu show. We have also seen a lot of inspirational styling combinations made out of pieces from spring/summer collections. While Elle Fanning showed us an interesting way to wear Miu Miu pastels, Anna Dello Russo taught us how to rock a colorful Celine coat.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli were once again inspired by Rome, only this time their mood board was infused with with Italian Pop Art from sixties and works of female artists such as Carla Accardi, as well as Commedia dell’arte costumes. In the first part of the show we have seen some 1960-s style A-line dresses with colourful prints, Harlequin-inspired leather patchwork pieces and monastic style dresses, but then their signature lace, tulle and renaissance embroidery with butterflies and animal motifs started to emerge. Towards the end of the show they combined all the elements together in a delightful spread of evening gowns. It was especially interesting to see how they managed to turn Pop art graphics into a pattern for one of their buttoned up dresses. The last gown in navy blue with big red heart across the chest was inspired by the work of female artist Giosetta Fioroni.
”It’s important to give people the freedom to be themselves” said Maria Grazia Chiuri after the show. But while each of their epic couture quality evening dresses is a work of art to keep for life, the collection also features great ready-to-wear looks as well. There were some simple and modern pieces which are definitely a must for the next fall/winter season such as reversible capes, colourful cardigan coats and shirt collar dresses.
Karl Lagerfeld’s show at Paris Fashion Week was inventive, colorful, futuristic and a little insane. After taking us to another planet with his couture collection in January and leaving us to ponder about mixing bejeweled sneakers and ball gowns, this time he transported us back to earth – into a supermarket. It was a strange experience from start to finish.
The very first impression is that it took a while to create set design for this show. There were 500 different products from groceries and coconut milk to cans of paint and toiletries neatly arranged on shelves. At the beginning it kind of looked like a fashion show, but towards the end it turned into a crazy performance with models wondering around, pretending to shop.
Since he never even set foot to a supermarket, we were all wondering what was he trying to tell us… and he said that it was all about pop art and reflection on the idea of fashion as disposable art. However, he actually tried to show that real couture isn’t a supermarket good because it cannot be reproduced: “It’s a sort of challenge. Because it’s mass production, but it’s impossible to reproduce the textiles, trims, and embroideries”.
Continuing with his obsession with sneakers, Lagerfeld went step further and paired them with a classical Chanel costume. Needless to say, we couldn’t see a single pair of heels at the show. For this collection he also used a lot of vinyl and silver foil and some cutting-edge Chanel fabrics including textured tweeds which look very rich and colorful. He also shocked with pieces full of moth holes, especially with his opening look worn by Cara Delevingne.
“The collection is about celebrating femininity and the rock woman,” said Riccardo Tisci about his fall/winter collection for Givenchy. “I’ve been doing the kind of young and more street look for so long, and I wanted to experiment with this woman who is feeling more like a woman”. He mixed trouser suits with lots of sexy fur and fabulous girly dresses, buttoned up blouses and pleated skirts, but also Bauhaus inspired strips with sweet butterfly and floral prints. In short, it was very colourful, luxurious and sensual.
Tisci used his bright-colored stripes everywhere: on suits, dresses, skirts and jackets. He used them to add a bit of geometry and roughness to his soft silhouettes and romantic prints. He used a lot of fur and leather and combined these heavy lux fabrics with delicate and fluttery materials such as chiffon, silk and tulle. The final look included a small top embellished with three-dimensional crystals in rainbow colors.
Even though the invitation for Celine show featured a photograph of the German artist Hannah Hoch, famous for her surrealistic photo montages, Phoebe Philo’s collection wasn’t about collages. It was a mix of gingham prints, 1970-s style knit flares, midi skirts, elegant coats and winter wedge sandals. Silhouettes were relaxed but feminine and the color palette was very natural from ivory and sand to chocolate brown and deep blue. She spiced it up with some bright-colored details such as fur mufflers, chunky bracelets and floral embellishments. There were a lot of knits too. She used them for trousers, long sweaters and jackets which were extremely elegant and were worn with colorful jewelry.
From double-breasted coats and feathered dresses to gingham shirts the collection is very casual and wearable. There was also something very romantic about it, but she made it look very cool and modern. It seemed organic, effortless and stylish, without too much hype and glamour.