Colorful fur jackets were very popular this winter but this trend went step further and next year we will be seeing a lot of colorful patchwork and vivid prints on fur. Miuccia Prada even made some printed fur coats for the summer, but we have seen more of this at fall/winter shows. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, well known for his artistic prints on clothes, used them on fur this time, while Altuzarra, Aquilano Rimondi and Daks have shown us interesting patterns printed on fur.
Patchwork is definitely a huge trend for fall/winter 2014 and we have seen some beautiful coats made from colorful patches at Phillip Lim, Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. Prada’s latest collection includes some leather coats with fur trimmings in vivid colors, while Vercase and Dolce&Gabbana designed some amazing fur coats in bright red which look incredibly warm.
Even though we have seen a lot of bright colors, crazy collages and vivid patterns at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York this week, somehow Michael Kors’s collection done entirely in drab winter colors had more cheerfulness than any other show. He was inspired by the coasts of California and the collection features some summery fabrics such as floral printed chiffon, cleverly mixed with warm knits and fur. Romantic summer dresses are tied with big belts and worn with chunky sweaters and flat leather sandals. It is all very sophisticated and feminine, but also incredibly nonchalant. The silhouettes are somewhere between 1940-s and 1970-s, and the collection includes virtually all shades of grey.
It was all about a “Scottish woman who’s a little bit more disheveled in winter, with this static hair like she’s running through the fields in the Highlands”, said Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig about Marchesa fall/winter 2014 show. From deconstructed kilts and lace cocktail dresses that resemble Scottish landscapes, the collection was glamorous, opulent and historical. The designers depicted their own version of Scottish traditional wardrobe and gave it a high fashion makeover.
The collection features delicate patchwork, embellished silk, lace, fur and feathers. From chic cocktail dresses to flamboyant ball gowns, each piece from the show can go straight to the red carpet event or a VIP party. Since Marchesa is one of the favourite labels of celebrities around the globe, it will be interesting to see which looks from this collection will be seen at the Oscars next month.
This season Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley took over Marc by Marc Jacobs label after they were named creative director and head designer respectively. The British designer duo completely revamped the brand and even renamed it. From now on it will be called MBMJ and the new collaboration generated a lot of hype. Fall/winter collection gave a completely new look to Marc by Marc Jacobs girl who is “tough” and “cool”, to put it in Luella Bartley’s words.
The collection was inspired by many things from ninjas and motocross to Japanese manga cartoons and it is all very original. Illustrations were made by British artist Fergus Purcell and they were printed on jackets, dresses and even jeans. The clothes is sporty and urban, designed for a city girl who wears sneakers and flat shoes all the time, even on a fun night out, paired with cute girly dresses with big bows across the chest.
“It’s very me! It’s dark, it’s gothic, it’s depressing . . .” said Vera Wang, designer famous for her romantic wedding dresses much loved by celebrities. This time she was inspired by grunge, goth style and insects, and even made a sweatshirt with “You Bug Me” words printed on it. The collection is mostly dark, sporty and casual with pieces like plaid coats and dresses, leather skirts and trousers and chunky sweaters, but she also used romantic printed chiffon, cobweb lace and pleated silk tulle for sexy evening dresses.
The whole collection is very youthful but it features some grown-up glamour with details like fur accessories, leather gloves and big insect brooches. “People think of me for romance, but there’s always the old references to what our brand stands for. There’s a tomboy, male energy mixed in with a sensuality”, she said.
Inspired by vintage underwear Alexandre Herchcovitch created very romantic and feminine collection with plenty of handcrafted lace and embroidery. It took him about three months to finish the little black lace dress with the leather petticoat. There are a lot of nostalgic ladylike details such as muttonchop sleeves, scalloped edges, ruffles and crystal embellishments which may be slightly too eccentric for everyday styling, but great for various special occasions.
Most of the pieces from the collection are done in white and beige, but there are also some underwear-like pieces in soft grey. He also used red, dark grey and black, mostly for coats, jackets and dresses.
Suno fall/winter 2014 collection was inspired by Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert’s photographs of a gypsy camp in Romania taken between 1990 and 2006. From silver faux fur to jacquards and duchesse satin, Suno’s gypsy girl is dressed up in luxurious fabrics. The collection is very cheerful and colourful, abundant with gypsy-style mixed prints and patterns.
Since this story is essentially about gypsies who prospered from selling scrap metal and tents and eventually became rich, the collection is very glamorous. It is also a mix between feminine elegance and tomboy style with loose, relaxed silhouettes, wide trousers, oversized tops and manly shoes.