Colorful fur jackets were very popular this winter but this trend went step further and next year we will be seeing a lot of colorful patchwork and vivid prints on fur. Miuccia Prada even made some printed fur coats for the summer, but we have seen more of this at fall/winter shows. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, well known for his artistic prints on clothes, used them on fur this time, while Altuzarra, Aquilano Rimondi and Daks have shown us interesting patterns printed on fur.
Patchwork is definitely a huge trend for fall/winter 2014 and we have seen some beautiful coats made from colorful patches at Phillip Lim, Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. Prada’s latest collection includes some leather coats with fur trimmings in vivid colors, while Vercase and Dolce&Gabbana designed some amazing fur coats in bright red which look incredibly warm.
There is nobody that can make gray flannel look so sophisticated and cool than Giorgio Armani. It is classic winter chic but with a modern twist, made for urban modern women. He made the entire collection using only three colors: black, gray and lime green. Mixing the colors together, especially the ombre effect which he used for jackets and coats was truly spectacular. It worked very well, even for evening dresses. After seeing so many colorful prints and patterns at Milan Fashion Week, Armani’s collection transported us back to reality.
Influenced by African wax prints and Japanese forms, Stella Jean’s show was a delightful display of mixed prints and patterns. She said that it took her 250 hours to create this collection which was made in Italy. She applied her funky prints on everything from silk to wool and nylon and on each piece from the show including tights and footwear.
The collection was very colorful and included some animal prints as well which she also used for her spring/summer 2014 collection. But while her last show consisted mainly from cotton pieces, this one was more luxurious and extravagant. Her floor-length colorful wooly coats opened the show, and she cleverly matched them with shorts and pussy bow shirts. She was using feminine silhouettes for skirts and dresses, but also pure masculine forms for jackets and coats. Sometimes she even blended those elements together which look very effective.
When Dolce & Gabbana decide to play with collage trend the result is truly impressive. The source of inspiration was of course Sicily, but this time they invented a whole new parallel universe inhabited with beautiful creatures from their imagination. We have seen beautiful colorful appliqués in shapes of flowers, trees, apples, foxes, howls, hedgehogs, swans and squirrels. Some of their creations looked literally like children’s books while others were simply pure Dolce & Gabbana glamour crafted from silk, lace and pretty embellishments. While ornaments were very rich and extravagant, the tailoring was quite simple and it all looked very effective.
Accessories were really stunning and almost every piece is a pure fetish every girl will desperately want to have. Dolce & Gabbana are well known for making incredible, perfectly shaped shoes with beautiful embellishments, and this time we have seen some cute strap flats decorated with flower appliqués and metal studs, but also their charming lady-like strap shoes with chunky heels. Boots were beautiful too, especially the ones covered in jewels, but the collection of handbags was absolutely breathtaking.
Inspired by Herman Hesse’s novel ‘Steppenwolf’, Ridley Scott’s film ‘Blade Runner’, German writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, Little Red Riding Hood and artist Joseph Beuys, Antonio Marras included a lot of different elements in his fall/winter collection. The runway was decorated with a big silver full moon and screens playing videos with wolves. He also printed wolves howling at the moon on silk dresses and winter coats, but this scene also appears on big wooly jumpers and on skirts and tops in the form of collage appliqués.
He used delicate embroidery, lace and floral prints for his feminine dresses at the end of the show, but he also made some masculine pieces with rough geometric forms. The collection had elements of horror, romantic fairytale and urban jungle, but it actually looks like a very interesting and coherent mix.
Etro show at Milan Fashion Week was a colorful patchwork made from paisley patterns the brand was famous for. Veronica Etro decided to open the family archive and use it for her inspiration. She created collages by blending together family designs from different decades. It was a fun journey through history.
The clothes are very ethnic and hence traditional, but also very contemporary with modern shapes and tailoring. Pieces like Romanian blouses, Peruvian ponchos and Mongolian lamb gilets were mixed together in a very diverse, multiethnic collection which is just ideal for modern nomads in the globalized world.
Moschino is well known for its kooky designs and conceptual jokes, but Jeremy Scott took it to a brand new level. He was playing with the brandomania trend like many other designers did this season, but his version of it was radical. While the first part of the show was all about McDonald’s and the signature red and yellow packaging, the second one was glam streetwear abundant with gold chains Moschino logo. The third one looked like a weird joke with Sponge Bob printed on everything from coats to dresses, but the final couture part was the icing on the cake. It was an interesting reflection on consumerism and junk food since Scott’s evening gowns were covered with giant prints of food packaging. Models were wrapped in lux fabrics illustrations of bags of chips, popcorn, fruit candies and chocolate boxes. There was also a wedding gown at the end of the show with nutrition info printed on white silk.