Colorful fur jackets were very popular this winter but this trend went step further and next year we will be seeing a lot of colorful patchwork and vivid prints on fur. Miuccia Prada even made some printed fur coats for the summer, but we have seen more of this at fall/winter shows. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, well known for his artistic prints on clothes, used them on fur this time, while Altuzarra, Aquilano Rimondi and Daks have shown us interesting patterns printed on fur.
Patchwork is definitely a huge trend for fall/winter 2014 and we have seen some beautiful coats made from colorful patches at Phillip Lim, Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. Prada’s latest collection includes some leather coats with fur trimmings in vivid colors, while Vercase and Dolce&Gabbana designed some amazing fur coats in bright red which look incredibly warm.
“The collection is about celebrating femininity and the rock woman,” said Riccardo Tisci about his fall/winter collection for Givenchy. “I’ve been doing the kind of young and more street look for so long, and I wanted to experiment with this woman who is feeling more like a woman”. He mixed trouser suits with lots of sexy fur and fabulous girly dresses, buttoned up blouses and pleated skirts, but also Bauhaus inspired strips with sweet butterfly and floral prints. In short, it was very colourful, luxurious and sensual.
Tisci used his bright-colored stripes everywhere: on suits, dresses, skirts and jackets. He used them to add a bit of geometry and roughness to his soft silhouettes and romantic prints. He used a lot of fur and leather and combined these heavy lux fabrics with delicate and fluttery materials such as chiffon, silk and tulle. The final look included a small top embellished with three-dimensional crystals in rainbow colors.
Even though we have seen a lot of bright colors, crazy collages and vivid patterns at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York this week, somehow Michael Kors’s collection done entirely in drab winter colors had more cheerfulness than any other show. He was inspired by the coasts of California and the collection features some summery fabrics such as floral printed chiffon, cleverly mixed with warm knits and fur. Romantic summer dresses are tied with big belts and worn with chunky sweaters and flat leather sandals. It is all very sophisticated and feminine, but also incredibly nonchalant. The silhouettes are somewhere between 1940-s and 1970-s, and the collection includes virtually all shades of grey.
It was all about a “Scottish woman who’s a little bit more disheveled in winter, with this static hair like she’s running through the fields in the Highlands”, said Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig about Marchesa fall/winter 2014 show. From deconstructed kilts and lace cocktail dresses that resemble Scottish landscapes, the collection was glamorous, opulent and historical. The designers depicted their own version of Scottish traditional wardrobe and gave it a high fashion makeover.
The collection features delicate patchwork, embellished silk, lace, fur and feathers. From chic cocktail dresses to flamboyant ball gowns, each piece from the show can go straight to the red carpet event or a VIP party. Since Marchesa is one of the favourite labels of celebrities around the globe, it will be interesting to see which looks from this collection will be seen at the Oscars next month.
Out of all spring 2014 couture shows in Paris, Bouchra Jarrar’s one was perhaps the most interesting for those who love couture fashion for day, rather then just glamorous evening gowns. Her clothes look very expensive and incredibly stylish, and yet it is not just about dresses. She showed some beautiful jackets, redingotes and giles which are very colorful and flamboyant, but worn with plain and chic tuxedo trousers. She used a lot of fur, heavy and luxurious embellishments and zippers for her couture jackets.
“I really believe in couture for day”, said Jarrar. Her voluptuous biker jackets adorned with crystals, fur and diagonal zippers really seem like a good everyday luxury. She also made some delicate silk gowns for the evening look which are very elegant but also simple and effortless.
Antonio Marras’s collection is inspired by his father’s fabric shop and has a strong vintage feel. It features a lot of different fabrics from wool and jersey to fur and leather. They are nicely blended together and look both modern and classical. He went through shop’s archives to find his favorite materials and re-created them. He also printed portraits of his father on shirts which he matched with sporty trousers. The whole collection is pretty casual with relaxed shapes and it looks very urban and modern. Color palette ranges from soft grey to dark red and navy, but there are also a number of gorgeous black and white outfits.
Preen’s pre-fall 2014 collection features a lot of colorful florals and animal patterns. Vibrant colors are brightening up the dark winter palette which includes black, navy and dark green, with sprinkling of white. The collection is inspired by freedom, wild nature and birds.
From loose silhouettes and masculine suits to glamorous but simple evening gowns, lace dresses and sexy fur, Thornton Bregazzi was playing with very different forms and was inspired by different types of women while making this collection. There are many casual pieces, but also a number of youthful and eccentric ones with long zippers in unexpected places and a mix of floral and bird prints.