Colorful fur jackets were very popular this winter but this trend went step further and next year we will be seeing a lot of colorful patchwork and vivid prints on fur. Miuccia Prada even made some printed fur coats for the summer, but we have seen more of this at fall/winter shows. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, well known for his artistic prints on clothes, used them on fur this time, while Altuzarra, Aquilano Rimondi and Daks have shown us interesting patterns printed on fur.
Patchwork is definitely a huge trend for fall/winter 2014 and we have seen some beautiful coats made from colorful patches at Phillip Lim, Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. Prada’s latest collection includes some leather coats with fur trimmings in vivid colors, while Vercase and Dolce&Gabbana designed some amazing fur coats in bright red which look incredibly warm.
“Your culture is done by your past”, said Miuccia Prada whose shows are never just about coats and dresses, but also about cultural heritage. The starting point for her fall/winter 2014 collection was Fassbinder’s film ‘The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant’ which is why the mood of the collection is so dark. With the orchestra performing live and the special lighting, the show was conceived as an artistic performance. Barbara Sukowa, the star of Fassbinder’s film ‘Lola’, was singing songs by Weimar composer Kurt Weill.
The collection is a continuation of her menswear show from January, inspired by German avant-garde and hence there is something bohemian and depressing about it, but the vibrant color blocking combinations and Art Deco prints spiced up with a bit of a 1930-s glamour makes it less gloomy. There were some beautiful silk dresses paired with oversized jackets and accessorized with thin, narrow scarves, metallic bags, futuristic wedge heels and plenty of fur.
One of the most exciting things about every fashion week is monitoring fashion trends at front rows, parties and streets. New York fashion crowd is always cool and stylish, without being too eccentric and flamboyant. Apart from celebrities, it is always fun to see what bloggers and magazine editors are wearing. This week they were sporting mainly warm clothes as weather conditions were harsh, but there were also some interesting pieces from spring/summer collections which they mixed with winter gear.
“There’s all the staples we’re known for: shirt dresses, T-shirt dresses, different hems, and colorblocking, but done in a way that’s right for this season. Nothing is just thrown in there”, said Lubov Azria about BCBG fall/winter 2014 RTW show at New York Fashion week. It was the event that marked 25th anniversary of the label.
The collection features loose-fitting caftan-shaped dresses, ponchos, oversized biker jackets and fur coats. These pieces are teamed with knee-high leather boots and fur clutches which are imitating hand-warmers. It is the embodiment of that effortless American elegance and glamor which is serious but not at all boring, especially because of details like big fur collars and splashes of bright colors on grey fabrics.